Peeps Into China; Or, The Missionary's Children

There is but little fun in travelling, and one does not see half there is to be seen unless one climbs; and as the Grahams were all bent on having fun and seeing as much as they could, on reaching the port of Takow, in Formosa, they ascended a very high mountain, called Monkey Mountain, because it is the home of very many monkeys, and they were rewarded by having, from its height, a capital view of the entrance to the port. To the front of the mountain were some European houses, belonging to English merchants from Amoy. The port of Takow is a very difficult one at which to anchor, and is closed for commerce during six months of the year, whilst the wind is blowing in an adverse direction; but when the wind and tide are favourable, barks pass between some rocks at the entrance to the port. It is only at the north that the water is deep enough for merchant-ships to pass by. Here Leonard saw men fishing quite differently from what he had ever seen people fish before; and as they walked in the water behind their nets, which they seemed to manage very cleverly, he wished so much that he could have been there with them.

Takow is one of the four ports in Formosa which, through treaties, have been thrown open to foreign trade, the others being those of Kelung, Tamsui, and Taiwan-fu.

Formosa, as its name implies, is a very lovely, picturesque island, and the Spaniards, who first made it known to Europeans, named it "Isla Formosa," which, in their language, means "beautiful island."Takow seemed to abound in tropical vegetation, palm-trees being very conspicuous.The gong, used everywhere in China, was much in use here also; and as in other places men carried things by balancing them across their shoulders, so also they did here.But as Mr. Graham's special object in coming to this island was to visit Poahbi, the first centre of the population of a tribe of aborigines, whom the Chinese have named Pepohoans, or strangers of the plain, he moved on thither as quickly as he could. The country through which they now passed was very beautiful, palm-trees and bamboos overshadowing the way.

Although it was the month of November, the weather was hot here, and women, wearing white calico dresses, were hard at work in the fields.Many of the women of Formosa had compressed feet, and most of the children wore charms round their necks.

The Pepohoans used to live in fertile plains, but when greedy and grasping Chinese drove them from the rich and beautiful lands that were then theirs, and had belonged to their ancestors before them, they took shelter, and made themselves homes, in mountain fastnesses.

Sybil and Leonard were charmed with the people of Poahbi, and thought both their faces and manners very pretty.Although some of the people stared at the foreigners, and laughed at them, many wished to make them welcome in their midst.One woman gave them shelter for the night—a very kind-hearted woman, with a dear little baby, and a very clean and comfortable home.She was a Christian.

At Poahbi Mr. Graham saw a little Christian chapel, which the natives had not only built, but which they also kept up, themselves.Pepohoans are good builders, and do also much work in the fields.They have a most affectionate remembrance of the Dutch, who were once their masters, but who were afterwards expelled from Formosa by a Chinese pirate.

The huts, or bamboo cottages, of the Pepohoans, raised on terraces three or four feet high, looked very picturesque, and consisted first of a framework of bamboo, through which crossbars of reeds were run; the whole being thickly covered over with clay.The houses were afterwards whitened with lime.A barrier of prickly stems extended round the huts, throwing a shade over them, whilst these dwellings often had for roofing a thatch of dried leaves.Most things in Formosa were made of bamboo, such as tables, chairs, beds, pails, rice-measures, jars, hats, pipes, chop-sticks, goblets, paper, and pens.Many of the Pepohoans' habitations were built on three sides of a four-cornered spot, with a yard in the centre, where the families sometimes passed their evenings together. The natives assembled here, in numbers, at about nine o'clock, where they made a fire when it was cold. Old and young people here often formed a circle on the ground, sitting together with their arms crossed, smoking, and talking. It was not unusual for dogs also to surround them. These people were fond of singing, but played no musical instruments. Sybil said, directly she saw them, that they were just the sort of people she liked, but this was before she heard that they ate serpents and rats. The women had a quantity of hair, which they wound round their heads like crowns. None of them painted their faces. Some of the men were very badly dressed. All Pepohoans seemed to have very beautiful black eyes. In the different villages the inhabitants were different, and where they had most contact with the Chinese they dressed better, but were less affable. They seemed to be a very honest race.

The Pepohoans are subject to the Chinese Government.Some of them, like the Chinese, have been ruined by opium.The aborigines, consisting of different tribes, talk different dialects.The people of one tribe, the most savage of all, are very warlike, and think nothing of killing and eating their Chinese neighbours when they get the chance to do so; therefore, they are held in great terror.Sybil and Leonard would not have liked to have visited this tribe, for they also hate Europeans.

There was a grandness of beauty in this island of Formosa which could not fail, more and more, to charm Mrs. Graham, and many a pretty sketch did she here make, both for herself and for Sybil's letters.Sybil also liked being here very much; "but if she had only seen," Leonard said, what he and his father saw one day, when they went for a ramble through the mountains, whilst Sybil was helping her mother to sketch by keeping her company, and making clever little attempts at sketching herself, "she would want to be off that very moment."

There were caverns in Formosa, and they were walking along, exploring some, Leonard some little way in front of Mr. Graham, the teacher, and a native guide, who followed a few yards behind, when the English boy suddenly caught sight of two huge, yellow serpents twined round the branch of an overhanging tree.No one but Leonard was near enough to see them, and as the first creature stretched its dreadful-looking head out, hissing towards him, the brave, self-possessed little fellow, who held a stick in his hand, struck his deadly foe with it with all his might, and hit and aimed so well that he had the satisfaction, the next moment, of seeing the serpent roll over and over down the rock.But then the further one (which, although rather smaller than the other, measured about six feet) wound, in a moment, its wriggling body round the branch of the tree, stretching its head out almost within reach of Leonard, when the boy-guide and Mr. Graham, the same instant, came upon the spot.The boy, accustomed to such encounters, at once dealt the snake a blow, that caused it to lose its balance, and thus all were able to pass on their way in thankfulness and safety.

When Sybil heard of the adventure she was very proud of her little brother; but, as he had imagined when she heard that Formosa was inhabited by serpents, she was glad also to think that it was settled for them to leave that island for Swatow in two days' time.

That evening was spent very pleasantly comparing notes of adventure with an English gentleman, who had been in Formosa for some time, and now called upon Mr. Graham and his family, who were staying at the consul's. He had seen and done a good deal, he said, but he spoke very highly of Leonard's brave exploit.

In the course of his wanderings, he told them, he had visited the village of Lalung, which is situated on the narrowest part of a large river.During the rainy season the waters would here rise and cover a vast bed, opening out a new passage across the land, and flowing away towards the eastern plain.Great mountain heights surrounded the bed of the river, and the violence of the torrent carried away very large quantities of all sorts of rubbish, which the sea would collect, and deposit, along the eastern coast. Mr. Hardy explained to Leonard how this would account for the port of Thaï-ouan disappearing, and that of Takow forming lower down.

"Formosa," he continued, "shows very plainly how the violence of waters can quite transform the physical aspect of a country."

Mr. Hardy then told them that he, with a guide, had once visited the bed of the river of Lalung, during the dry season, as an explorer, when he had taken off his boots and socks, so as to be able to walk wherever he chose, and fathom the depth of the water in different parts.

How Leonard wished he had been with him on this occasion, which seemed to him a regular voyage of discovery!

Two days later, as arranged, the Grahams made sail for Swatow.In crossing the channel, which separates the island from the mainland, Leonard, as usual, had some questions to ask.

"What made the Chinese call Formosa Tai-wan?"

"Because that word means the terraced harbour."

"The east coast hasn't a harbour at all, has it?"

"No; mountains are on the east, and to the west are flat and fertile plains, and all the ports."

"I suppose you know, Sybil, that there are some wild beasts in Formosa?"Leonard went on.

"Yes, I heard Mr. Hardy say so: leopards, tigers, and wolves."

"I think it's my turn to ask a question now," Mrs. Graham said."I wonder if you and Sybil can tell me what grows principally in Formosa?"

"Rice," Sybil began, "sugar, wheat, beans, tea, coffee, pepper."

"Cotton, tobacco, silk, oranges, peaches, and plums," Leonard ended."We saw most of these things growing ourselves, so we ought to know."

"Yes; and flax, indigo, camphor, and many fruits that you have not mentioned."

"The Chinese part of the island, I suppose, belongs to Fukien?"Sybil said, "as it is painted the same colour on my map."

"Yes."

What religion had the aborigines?she then wanted to know.

Mr. Graham answered this question by telling her that he believed they had no priesthood at all.

"What a pity it is," Sybil said, "that a number of missionaries could not be sent out there.I do so like the Pepohoans!"

"How long is it now since the Dutch were driven away?"Leonard asked."And how long were they in Formosa?"

"About 1634 the Dutch took possession of the island, and built several forts, but a Chinese pirate drove them out in 1662, and made himself king of the western part.In 1683 his descendants submitted to the authority of the Chinese Emperor, to whom they are now tributary.The Chinese colonists, however, often rebel."

"People have not known very long, have they, that the island of Formosa is important?"

"No; only since about 1852."

"About how many inhabitants has Thaï-ouan, the capital?"Leonard asked.

"I should think about 70,000, but it is now decreasing in population."

"How much you know, father," Sybil said."I wish I knew all you did!"

"I am afraid that is not very much; but if you notice things that you come across, and try to remember what you hear and what you read, you will soon gain plenty of knowledge and useful information."

"I wonder what Swatow is like?"Leonard then said; but he had not long to wait to find out, for a week after leaving Formosa they landed at Swatow, the port of Chaou-Chou-foo, in the province of Kwang-tung, where once again, for a fortnight, they were made very welcome: this time by some friends of the missionary with whom they had stayed at Amoy.

Their home, for the present, was very prettily situated on a range of low hills.Many pieces of granite were scattered about on the summit of these hills, as they were about Amoy, which some people say have been caused to appear through volcanic irruptions.On them also were Chinese inscriptions.Leonard was delighted because the Chinese teacher cut his name on one of these pieces of granite. The houses of Swatow were built with a kind of mortar, made of China clay, and attached to some of them were very pretty gardens.

In front of the Consulate, which was a very large building, was a flag-staff, with a flag flying.

The ceilings of the house, in which the Grahams stayed, was painted with flowers and birds, and some of the windows were also painted so as to look like open fans.The Chinese are fond of decorating their rooms and painting their ornaments, and the people of Swatow seemed to be better painters than the Chinese; but they kept their pictures hidden, only a very few of them producing any to show our friends.The people of Swatow are also noted for fan-painting.

Sybil thought some of the women of Swatow rather nice-looking, but, like other ladies of the "Flowery Land," they had a wonderful way of dressing their hair.One woman, Leonard declared, had hers done to represent a large shell.A young lady, to whom Sybil was introduced, had the thickest hair that she had ever seen.She and other Chinese girls wore it hanging down their backs in twists.She was just fifteen, and Sybil was told that she was going to be married in about a year's time, so she would soon have to begin to let her fringe grow.She was the daughter of a rich man, and had such pretty, dark eyes.

Round a girl's and woman's head, or to fasten up her back hair, ornaments are generally worn.E-Chung wore rather a large one round her head.Sybil was allowed to spend an afternoon, and take some tea, with this young lady, but they could not talk much together.E-Chung knew, and spoke, a little of what is called pidgin, or business English, because many business, or shop, people and those who mix most with the English, speak this strange language to them; but Sybil could understand hardly any of it.Before E-Chung heard that Sybil had a brother, she said to her, "You one piecee chilo?"meaning to ask if she were the only child.Then she was trying to describe somebody to Sybil whose appearance did not please her, so she made an ugly grimace and said, "That number one ugly man all-same so fashion," meaning "just like this."Another time she meant to ask Sybil if she were not very rich, so she said, "You can muchee money?"

The hair down Sybil's back was such a contrast to her friend's, as was also her rather pale complexion.E-Chung wished very much to enamel Sybil's face, as she did her own, and could not understand why she should so persistently refuse to have it done.

Chinese ladies seldom do without their rouge, and often keep their amahs, or maids, from three to four hours at a time doing their hair.

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CHAPTER VIII.

A very large bridge crosses the Han River at this place, a picture of which the teacher had, and showed to the children.It is made of stone, and composed of many arches, or rather square gateways, under which ships pass to and fro.On the bridge, on each side of the causeway, are houses and shops.

"I should not care much to live in them," said Leonard.

Nor would the teacher, he replied; for they did not look, and were not supposed to be, at all safe.

Two pieces of wood are suspended between the arches, which the inhabitants take up in the day-time and let down at night, to prevent, as they say, evil spirits passing under their homes and playing them tricks.

It was a very happy fortnight that was spent at Swatow, and Sybil was sorry to leave this port to go on to Hong-Kong. Somehow, although they were not going to settle down now, and had still Macao and Canton to visit, it seemed like bringing the end nearer—going much nearer to it, when they went to Hong-Kong even for a few days, for there her parents were to be left behind when she and Leonard returned to England. This English colony, the little island of Hong-Kong, about eight miles in length, is separated from the mainland by a very narrow strait, in the midst of a number of small islands.

The Bishop of Hong-Kong had kindly invited Mr. Graham and his family to stay at his residence, St. Paul's College, during the few days that they now remained at Hong-Kong, before continuing their tour and returning to settle down, and the kind invitation had been gladly and gratefully accepted.

The missionary's party landed in a boat, or rather, in a floating house, for the people to whom it belonged lived here, and it was their only home.

The children had heard that there were so many inhabitants in China that for very many of them there was no house accommodation, and that these lived in boats, and were called the boat population; and Leonard was delighted to be travelling in one of these house-boats himself, and seeing the homes of the boat people. Their very little children were tied to doors, and other parts of the boat, by long ropes. Those who were three or four years old had floats round their backs, so that if they fell overboard they would not sink, and their parents could jump in after them. Most care seemed to be taken of the boys. Instead of being dedicated to "Mother," boat-children, soon after they are born, are dedicated to Kow-wong, or Nine Kings, and for three days and nights before they marry, which ceremony takes place in the middle of the night, Taouist priests chant prayers to the Kow-wong.

The boats in which live the Taouist priests, for the boat population, are called Nam-Mo-Teng.These are anchored in certain parts, that the priests may be sent for when needed.Their boats look partly like temples, and have altars and idols, also incense burning within them.The names of the priests who live there, and the rites they perform, are written up in the boats.The boat people can have everything they require without going on shore at all.There are even river barbers and policemen, which latter are very necessary, considering that there are so many pirates.

It seemed strange to Sybil and Leonard to think that boat-children never went on shore, might never do so, and would even marry on board their boat homes; but it did not seem at all strange to the little children themselves, who played about on board quite as happily as did children on shore. They looked strong, and seemed to be fond of one another. One woman going along was very angry with one of her children, and for a punishment threw him into the water, but he had a float on his back, and was quickly brought back again. These women often carry their children on their backs, but this is a most usual way of carrying children in China, both amongst the land and water people.

Sybil had already often had her wish fulfilled, of travelling in sedan-chairs, and as that is the regular mode of travelling in Hong-Kong, directly they arrived here coolies were to be seen, standing and sitting, on the pier beside their chairs, waiting for a fare.Very eager they seemed to be to secure either people or their baggage.And Sybil liked being borne along in these chairs even better than she had expected.

The sedans were made of bamboo, covered with oil-cloth, and carried on long poles.A great many sedan-chair-bearers have no fixed homes, living day and night in the open air, and buying their food at stalls on the road.They take care to keep their chairs in very good condition, ready to hire out whenever they are needed.Leonard was charmed with his bearers.They spoke such funny pigeon English to him, and made him wonder why they would put "ee" to the end of so many of their words.When Leonard once wished to speak to his father, who was on in front, and succeeded in making his bearers understand this, one of them said "My no can catchee."They admired the boy very much, and wanted to persuade him to let them carry him one day to a "handsome face-taking-man," but he could not understand at all, at first, that they wanted him to let them carry him somewhere to have his portrait taken."My likee," one said, pointing to Leonard's face, "welly much."The Chinese do not paint pictures very well, and sometimes, instead of a brush, will use their fingers and nails.

The chair-men called Leonard "Captain" several times, which seemed to be a common way of addressing strange "gentlemen."

They then asked him how Mr. Turner was, but he shook his head to show that he knew nobody of this name.They either did not understand or believe him.

"He hab got London-side," they explained.

Thinking that if he tacked a double "e" on to all his words he would be speaking the language they talked so much, he said "No-ee know-ee," and shook his head again.I think it was the expression on his face, and the shake of his head, which made them understand at last what he wished to say to them.

It seems that the natives of Hong-Kong, as well as other parts of China, think that every Englishman must know every other Englishman; having, indeed, such very small ideas of our important country, that they really think our wealth consists in our possessing Hong-Kong.

The first view that the Grahams had of this little island was a chain of mountains rising in the background to lofty peaks, and diminishing as they approached the sea into small hills and steep rocks.Not so very long ago, Sybil was told, Hong-Kong used to be a deserted island, though it now contained flower-gardens, orchards, woods, large trees, beautiful grass slopes, and very many buildings.The English town of Victoria was built along the sea-coast.As Hong-Kong belongs to Great Britain, the Government here was, of course, English; there were Christian temples, as well as Buddhist, and many European edifices were conspicuous in the Chinese streets.Then there were also large European club-houses, and, best of all, the Cathedral. The sea-shore stretched round towards a very beautiful port, which opened out to the west by a pass called Lyce-moun, and to the east by the Lama Pass.

"I do think, do you know, Leonard," Sybil said, as she wished her brother "Good-night" the evening after they had arrived at Hong-Kong, "that China is rather a 'Flowery Land' after all.I do not think I shall ever forget Formosa, at all events."

"We have seen pretty sights since we came to China," Leonard said, agreeing with his sister.

The next day Sybil and he were taken into the Queen's Road, which crossed the town from west to east, to the right of which was a regular labyrinth of streets, some leading into very fine roads.In one part of Hong-Kong nothing but shops and houses of business were to be seen.One of its principal ornaments was the tall clock-tower, which made even high trees beside it look quite small.

The most ancient houses of the colony are in a street that leads to the clock-tower, and close by it is also the hotel of Hong-Kong.Into this Sybil and Leonard were taken to have some tiffin, or lunch, whilst their sedans and bearers waited for them not far off, under some trees.

Leonard took a good view afterwards of a man in a turban whom they passed, because, as he was so important a person as a policeman, he thought Sybil might like to describe him in one of her letters, and she might perhaps forget what he was like.

Sybil had, as yet, only written one of her promised letters, but this had been full of news, and had told of rides in sedan-chairs, little Chu and Woo-urh, and all sorts of things; and before they moved on to Macao, she had determined to write another letter, and tell of Leonard saving himself from the serpent, and what they saw in Hong-Kong. This seemed to be a very busy place. Steamers were always either coming or going; and here, too, telegrams were constantly arriving. Besides English merchants, Chinese, American, French, German, Hindoo merchants, and others also traded with the little island, and shared what wealth she had. Hong-Kong is very English-looking, compared with other places in China, and the people are not only governed by English laws, but their crimes are tried by English judges. But even at Canton, Shanghai, and other ports where the English have settlements, they now claim, and have a voice in trials for crime. It is only because Hong-Kong belongs to the English that telegraph-wires are to be found there, as the Chinese will not have them anywhere else, because they think that they would offend the ghosts, or spirits, of the places through which they would pass. For the same reason also the Chinese have hardly any railroads. Even children could easily recognise here the introduction of English ways and manners.

Lily Keith was very fond of shopping, therefore in her next letter Sybil not only gave an account of Leonard's bravery, of which she was really more proud than Leonard himself, but also described a visit that she had paid to some shops.

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CHAPTER IX.

Macao was not as full now as it had been during the summer months, when many people resort thither from Canton for change of air and to enjoy the fresh sea-breezes.A beautiful walk, called the Grand Parade, surrounds its picturesque bay.

As Macao belongs to the Portuguese, a great many of the inhabitants speak that language.

Mr. and Mrs. Graham and their children stayed, whilst at Macao, at the Grand Hotel, which was situated on the Parade, where was also a very pretty jetty, on which Sybil and Leonard liked very much to walk.Here, again, the houses were painted.In a pretty street close by the Grand Parade, protected on both sides by walls, the Grahams were shown houses whose windows used to have barriers of iron. These houses, they were told, were a kind of prison, called Emigration Agencies, but where in reality poor coolies were kept for sale. This traffic had, happily, now been done away with.

Some of the houses in Macao seemed to be painted all colours, and many of the windows were bordered with red, the favourite colour.Most of the houses could boast of large rooms. Not very much commerce seemed to be carried on here.Leonard was one day taken to pay the European troops a visit in their garrison.

At four o'clock in the afternoon many people walked upon the Parade.Most of the Christians here were Roman Catholics, which was natural, considering that the place belonged to the Portuguese.Bells, calling people to church, rang two or three times a day, and these, and the bugle-call from the garrison, were the principal sounds heard.It was interesting to visit Macao, because here, in its quiet prettiness, the poet Camoens, when banished, spent some of his lonely years, and wrote a great part of his epic poem "Lusiad;" and here also a French painter, named Chinnery, had produced some of his pretty paintings and sketches.Sybil was old enough to care about such things, and to find both pleasure and interest in visiting any places once made memorable by the footprints left there of either good or great men; and when she had heard the poet's story, she was very sorry for him!

Camoens, who was the epic poet of Portugal, was born in Lisbon in 1524.An epic poet is one who writes narratives, or stories, which often relate heroic deeds. When banished by royal authority to Santarem, Camoens joined the expedition of John III. against Morocco, and lost his right eye in an engagement with the Moors in the Straits of Gibraltar. People in Lisbon, who would not admire his poetry, now thought nothing of his bravery. Sad and disappointed, he went to India in 1553; but being offended by what he saw the Portuguese authorities doing in India, he wrote a satire about them, called "Follies in India," and made fun of the Viceroy. For doing this, he was banished to Macao in 1556, where he lived for six years, writing "The Lusiad." On being recalled, he was shipwrecked, and lost everything that he had in the world but this epic poem, which he held in one hand above the waves, while he swam to shore with the other; and after suffering many misfortunes, he arrived in Lisbon in 1569, possessed of nothing else. He dedicated his poem to the young king Sebastian, who allowed him to stay at the court, and gave him a pension. But when Sebastian died he had nothing at all, and a faithful Indian servant begged for him in the streets. At last he died in the hospital at Lisbon, in 1579. Sixteen years later Camoens was appreciated, and people hunted for his grave, to erect a monument to his memory, but had much difficulty even in finding it.

The "Lusiad" celebrates the chief events in Portugal's history, and has been called "a gallery of epic pictures, in which all the great achievements of Portuguese heroism are represented."The poem has been translated into English, French, Italian, Spanish, German, and Polish.

After a short, but pleasant, stay at Macao, the Grahams went on to Canton.

"The last place but one," Sybil could not help whispering to Leonard on board."When we next arrive—" she went on, but tears starting into her eyes seemed to drown the rest of the sentence.However, as some very happy weeks had yet to be passed at Canton, neither she nor we must anticipate.A long visit of two months was to be spent here at the residence of a personal friend of Mr. Graham, the English consul of the place.

A servant was stationed on the steps leading round to the Consulate, or Yamen, to await the arrival of Mr. and Mrs. Graham and their children.

This house was situated on a height, and occupied the site of an ancient palace.It consisted of a suite of buildings, surrounded on one side by a pretty garden, and on the other by a park, in which deer grazed.Both Sybil and Leonard thought the deer very pretty; and quite near to the Yamen was a pagoda of nine storeys, which the Emperor Wong-Ti, who reigned about the middle of the sixteenth century, is supposed first to have constructed.

"How little," Sybil and Leonard said to one another, "we ever thought, when we examined our little ornamental pagodas at home, that we should ever live quite near to a real one!"

A story relating to this pagoda, being told to Leonard, interested him a good deal.

In 1859 some English sailors climbed up the old building, which was then in so tottering a condition that it was a really perilous ascent, and when they reached the top the Chinese were dreadfully angry, for two reasons: first, because they looked upon it as sacrilege; and secondly, because from the height the sailors could look down upon their houses, and the Chinese dislike very much indeed to be overlooked, especially by "barbarians."

The consul and Leonard were soon very good friends, and the elder friend very kindly did not weary of answering questions put to him by the little boy.

"Why is your house called a yamen?"

"This word means the same as does consulate, the official residence of the consul."

"What are you here for?"

The consul smiled."To protect your interests and those, commercial and otherwise, of every English citizen resident here."

"Who is that Jui-Lin of whom you have a picture?and is he alive now?"

"He died a few years ago, and was viceroy of Canton.He made so good a governor that those provinces over which he ruled generally prospered under his administration.It is in a great measure through his influence that peaceable relations have, for some time, been established between China and foreign countries.The Emperor Tau-Kwang, who came to the throne in 1820, thought so well of him that he made him one of his ministers.Later he became general of the Tartar garrison at Canton, and soon after he was made viceroy.He established order in a very troublesome district, where he made the clan villagers at last acknowledge some authority, and so put the people and their property in much greater security."

Leonard said Canton was the place for him, for here he saw ships and fishing to perfection.In Canton alone, the consul told him, it was estimated that 300,000 persons had their homes on the water. One Canton boat-woman, in whose passenger-boat they travelled, said that her husband went on shore during the day to work, whilst she looked after the passengers; but he seemed to be rather an exception, for most of the boat population never went on shore at all, and as people on land go to market to buy vegetables and other food, so everything in this line, that they required, was brought, by boat, to them. Then, besides boats, there were floating islands, on which people lived, and these consisted of rafts of bamboos fastened together, with a thick bed of vegetable soil covering the rafts. Here the owners set up houses, cultivated rice-fields, and kept tame cattle and hogs. Swallows and pigeons here built their nests in pretty surrounding gardens. Sails were put up on the houses, and oars were often used to propel the islands along. Women worked them frequently, with their babies fastened to their backs; and little boys and girls would here also play together, having smaller brothers and sisters thus attached to them. These floating islands, Sybil and Leonard were told, were to be seen on almost all Chinese lakes. Many floating houses were moored to one another.

Sometimes the boat population made such a noise.They seemed a good-natured set of people, but every now and then they quarrelled, and this was done very noisily.Then if a storm came on, they would call out with fear.Those people who lived in river streets, where their houses were close against the river, often complained of the noise that they heard during the night.The boat population are often looked down upon by the Chinese who live on land, and may not go in for the literary examinations.

There were very many fishing villages about, and nothing made Leonard happier than to be taken to one or another of them; he was so fond of boats of all kinds.Fishing-boats in China had to obtain a license from Government.Some of these sailed two and two abreast, at a distance, from one another, of about three hundred feet, when a net was stretched from ship to ship to enclose the fish.Names cut in the boats had generally reference to good fortune.The name on one, which Leonard had interpreted for him, was "Good Success."

In fishing as well as in other villages men go about hawking things for sale, and carrying them, by ship, from one village to another.In the bows of fishing vessels are large pairs of shears, which can be either raised or lowered. A large dip-net, fastened to the shears, is drawn up after remaining some time in the water, when the fish it contains are emptied into a little hole in the middle of the ship, like a large cistern, into which fresh water flows. The fishermen anchor their boats, and then lower their dip-nets into the water by means of these shears, which are made of bamboo, and attached to wooden platforms, resting on posts. Huts are sometimes erected near the dip-nets, so that the fishermen can shelter themselves from the hot sun. A great deal of fishing with birds called cormorants is also carried on in China, when one man will, perhaps, take out a hundred birds to fish for him, fastening something to their throats to prevent them from swallowing the fish when caught. As they return with them, they are given a little piece that they can swallow.

After young fish are caught, they are fed with paste in the tanks, or wells, into which they are put, and when they grow older little ponds are made for them.

Sybil and Leonard were taken very often on the Canton river in all kinds of boats, both large and small.In the stern of very many was an altar, concealed generally behind a sliding door, but which, night and morning, was drawn aside to admit the altar to view, and display the images of household gods that were upon it.

Here were also small ancestral tablets, which were regularly worshipped, and offerings of fruit and flowers were constantly offered to the guardian god of the boat and the tablets when they were worshipped.Tien-How, Queen of Heaven, also called Ma-chu, and other names, is much worshipped by sailors, but each boat has its special guardian god.Incense is burnt night and morning at the bow of the boat.The Grahams very often travelled in a small ship called a sampan, which had a mat roofing over the centre, and was driven forward, very frequently by women, with two oars and a scull.

"I have seen just the sort of thing for you to sketch, mother," Sybil said one day.Like her mother, she greatly admired what was beautiful, and now, with her fellow-excursionists, the consul, her father, and brother, returned home, from a ramble, very tired; "a dear little pagoda, seven storeys high, very near to the banks of the river, with mountains at the back and trees near to it, and a little village in the distance; and on the opposite side of the river we saw two men and a boy: the boy seemed to have a kite, but we thought it belonged to one of the men, and he was just carrying it for him."

Mrs. Graham sometimes did not feel equal to long expeditions, of which her children never grew tired, so then she would remain at home, or walk through the pretty gardens and park.

The Canton, Chu-kiang, or Pearl River, has a great many names and branches.The great western branch is called Kan-kiang, the northern branch Pe-kiang, or Pearl River, and the eastern one Tong-kiang.On the western branch the children found themselves surrounded by lovely mountain scenery.From Canton to Whampoa it was called the Pearl River; from Whampoa to Bocca Tigris, or Tiger's Mouth, Foo-mon; and beyond Shek-moon towards Canton, the Covetous River.The passage to Macao was the Wild Goose River.It was some time before Sybil and Leonard could understand anything at all about these divisions.

One day, on the Pearl River, they came to a very pretty spot, where the water was almost entirely land-locked by high ranges of hills, and here they asked to be allowed to remain stationary, for a little while, to look about them.

Another day they went very far indeed with their father and mother, crossing the Fatchan River, where Leonard heard, with interest, that Commodore Keppel engaged in a memorable battle in 1857.The river divides the town of Fatchan into two equal parts.Then again they went so far that they could not even think of returning home the same day, and stayed the night on the road to a village called Wong-tong, which was very countrified and pretty.

And once more they went—father, mother, and all—to a place quite different from anything that they had yet seen, which was the village of Polo-Hang.Here they found themselves in the midst of vast plains, on the outskirts of which were to be seen lovely-looking hills of limestone and rows of wonderfully-shaped mountains.Standing on one of these mountains, they had a capital view of the Temple of Polo-Hang and its surroundings, consisting of bare fields traversed by canals; and, at the foot of the mountains of thickets of bamboo, whose light, feathery branches swayed gently to and fro.Bamboo was very largely cultivated here, and Sybil thought it such a fairy-like growth.Must not this scene have been very lovely?Sybil was so glad that her mother had come to see it. Then other hills appeared, covered with trees, and dotted here and there with temples.

"Where did they all come from?" Leonard asked.

Mr. Graham was looking very serious.This was a scene calculated to leave a deep impression upon the beholders.

"From the hand of God," he said very quietly.

A week later, Sybil wrote again to her friend.

---

The shops opened right upon the street, which was very gay indeed with sign-boards.Just in front of the shops were granite counters, on which goods were shown to purchasers.

Many of the sign-boards rested on granite pedestals.On one side of each shop was a little altar, dedicated to the god of wealth, or the god supposed to preside over the special trade carried on within.Every heathen Chinese merchant and shopkeeper has some little spot set apart for this worship, although all the shops have not an altar, but many only a piece of red paper pasted upon a wall, on which the characters meaning "god of wealth" are written, and before which incense and candles are burnt.Every day, as soon as the shop is opened, worship is paid to this divinity.

The counters and shelves inside these hongs were very handsome.The accountant's desk was at the end of the hong, and here again the red colour was not absent, for the scales and weights of the shop were covered with cloth of that hue.

Beggars (some miserably and scantily dressed) are very numerous in China, people making quite a profession of begging, when they visit shops in companies, and there make a great disturbance until they receive what they demand.These beggars are often governed by a head-man, who was really first appointed to rule over them by the mandarin, to save himself trouble.A head-man will sometimes make an agreement with a hong proprietor, that if he will pay a sum of money down beggars shall not molest him; and when he agrees to this, a notice on red paper, stating the arrangement made, is hung up in the shop, after which any native beggar applying for aid can be shown this, turned out of the hong, and upon refusing to go, he can be beaten.But unless such an arrangement has been made, beggars may neither be beaten nor turned out of a shop, whatever annoyance they may offer, unless they steal, or break some other law.Therefore it is that poor shop-keepers feel themselves bound to pay money in order to avoid such annoyance.When the head-man is paid a sum of money, he is supposed to divide it amongst his band.

"I never heard such a shame!"Leonard exclaimed, when he saw one of these beggars very troublesome in the Street of Apothecaries, and heard the law with regard to them."I wish I were a mandarin.I'd very soon put a stop to poor shop-keepers being so persecuted."

That evening both Sybil and Leonard, feeling tired, went very early to bed, as they wanted to be up in very good time in the morning, so as to see the whole of the bridal procession, for the bridegroom sends very early indeed in the morning for his bride.The bridal-chair which he sends for her is often painted red.The one which the Grahams saw was of this colour, and over the door were also strips of red paper.Before the bride took her seat in the sedan, which was brought into the reception-room of her home for her, she having eaten nothing that morning, and having kow-towed very often to her parents, they covered her head and face with a thick veil, so that she could not be seen.The floor, from her room to the sedan, was covered with red carpet.When in the sedan, four bread-cakes were tossed into the air by one of the bridesmaids as an omen of good fortune. In front of the procession two men carried large lighted lanterns, having the family name of the bridegroom, cut in red paper, and pasted on them. Then came two men bearing the family name of the bride, who were, however, only to go part of the way. Other men followed, some carrying a large red umbrella, others torches, and again some playing a band of music. Near the bridal-chair brothers or friends of the bride walked. Half-way between the two houses the friends of the bridegroom met the bride, and as they approached the procession stopped.

The children were very much interested in watching what happened next.The bride's friends brought out a large red card, on which was written the bride's family name, and the other party produced a similar one, bearing that of the bridegroom.These were exchanged with bows.The two men at the head of the procession then walked, with their lanterns, between the sedan-chair and the lantern-bearers, who carried the bride's family name, and returned to their places in front, when the bride's party turned round and went back to her father's house, carrying home her family name, she being supposed to have now taken that of her husband.Even her brothers went back also, and then the band played a very lively air whilst the rest of the procession took her on.

Fireworks were let off along the road, and a great many outside the bridegroom's door when the bride arrived.Her bridesmaids, who have to keep with her throughout the day, accompanied the procession.

As the sedan-chair was taken into the reception-room, the torch-bearers and musicians stayed near the door, and where it was put down the floor was again covered with red carpet.The bridegroom then came and knocked at the bridal door, but a married woman and a little boy, holding a mirror, asked the bride to get out. Her bridesmaids helped her to alight. The mirror was supposed to ward off evil influences.

Sometimes, much for the same purpose, a bride is carried over a charcoal fire on a servant's back, but this was not done on this occasion. All this time the bride's face was hidden by her veil. She was then taken into a room, where the bridegroom was waiting for her, and here they sat down together for a few minutes, without speaking a word. Sometimes the bridegroom sits on a high stool, while the bride throws herself down before him, to show that she considers man superior to woman.

He then went into the reception-room, where he waited for his bride to come to worship his ancestral tablets with him.A table was put in front of the room, on which were two lighted candles and lighted incense.Two goblets, chop-sticks, white sugar-cocks, and other things were on the table, when the bride and bridegroom both knelt four times, bowing their heads towards the earth.This was called "worshipping heaven and earth."The ancestral tablets were on tables at the back, on which were also lighted candles and incense.Turning round towards the tablets, they worshipped them eight times, and then facing one another, they knelt four times.

Wedding wine was now drunk, and the bride and bridegroom ate a small piece from the same sugar-cock, which was to make them agree.

The thick veil was now taken off the bride, but her face was still partly hidden by strings of pearl hanging from a bridal coronet.

It often happens that the bridegroom now sees his bride for the first time, the two fathers having perhaps planned the marriage, asked a fortune-teller's advice, sent go-betweens to make all the necessary arrangements, chosen a lucky day, without the bride or bridegroom having a voice in the matter.This was the case with the young couple, a great part of whose wedding ceremony Sybil and Leonard had witnessed. Both Chinese boys and girls marry sometimes when they are sixteen years of age; these were very little older.

Many other ceremonies had to take place, such as kneeling very often before the bridegroom's parents, when at last it was time for the bride's heavy outer garments to be taken off, together with her head-dress, so that her hair could be well arranged; but she was not allowed to eat anything at all at the wedding dinner.Indeed, on her wedding-day, she is hardly expected to touch food at all.

Many people came in to see her, and on this day she must be quite natural, and wear no rouge at all.She has to stand up quietly to be looked at, blessed, and have remarks made upon her appearance.Presents are sent to the bridegroom's family.For three days the bride's parents send her food, as she may not, during that time, eat what her husband provides.In some districts of the province of Canton the bride leaves her husband, and goes home again for a time after she is married, but after marriage she is generally considered to belong almost entirely to her husband's family, in a wing of whose house she lives with him, and to whose parents she is supposed to help him to be filial.On many other days the ancestral tablets have to be worshipped by the bride and bridegroom, and amongst other gods and goddesses, those of the kitchen have adoration paid to them.

---

CHAPTER XI.

"Please, father," she said, "tell me all that the Chinese do when anybody dies."

"I do not think I could tell you all," was her father's reply, "because it would take too long, and I do not know all myself; but I dare say I can tell you quite enough to satisfy your curiosity.When a Chinese thinks that a relation is likely to die soon, he places him, with his feet towards the door, on a bed of boards, arranging his best robes and a hat, or cap, quite close to him, that he may be dressed in these just before he dies. It would be considered a dreadful thing if he were to die without putting them on. Soon after he is dead, a priest—usually a priest of Taou—is called in to ask the spirit to make haste to Elysium, and to cast the man's horoscope, so as to see how far the spirit has got on its journey."

"What does casting his horoscope mean?"

"Finding out the hour of a man's birth, and then foretelling events by the appearance of the heavens.More clothes are then put upon the dead man, who, if he be a person of rank, would wear three silk robes.Gongs are beaten, and when the body is placed in its coffin, every corner of the room is beaten with a hammer, to frighten away bad spirits.A crown is also put on any person of rank.Widows and children, to show their grief, sit on the floor instead of on chairs for seven days, and sleep on mats near to the husband and father's coffin.On the seventh day letters are written to friends, informing them of the death, when they send presents of money to help to defray the funeral expenses.I saw a very strange letter of thanks yesterday, a copy of which had been sent to each giver of a present, and besides money, food is sometimes given or priests are sent.The letter, as far as I can remember, ran thus: 'This is to express the thanks of the orphaned son, who weeps tears of blood, and bows his head; of the mourning brother, who weeps and bows his head; of the mourning nephew, who wipes away his tears and bows his head.'Then a letter is also written to the departed, and burnt, that it may reach him, whilst cakes and other presents are also sent to him by means of burning.

"On the twenty-first day after death a banquet is prepared in honour of the spirit, which is supposed, on that day, to come back to his home, when the entrance doors are shut, for fear any one should come in and vex the spirit. On the twenty-third day three large paper birds are put on high poles in front of the house, to carry the soul to Elysium; and for three days Buddhist priests pray to the ten kings of Buddhist hell to hasten the flight of the departed soul to the Western Paradise.

"The coffin is kept in the house for seven weeks, where an altar is set up, near to which the tablet and portrait of the deceased are put.Banners, which are looked upon as letters of condolence, are fixed upon the walls, and on these the merits of the dead man are inscribed.

"Pictures of the three Buddhas are also to be seen in the house.A lucky place and day have then to be fixed, by fortune-tellers, for the burial, and should these not be forthcoming, the coffin would be placed on a hill till they can be found.Burial is considered of so much importance, that should a man be drowned his spirit would be called back into a figure of wood or paper, and buried with pomp.Before the grave-diggers begin their work, members of the family worship the genii of the mountain, and write letters to these gods, asking them to be so kind as to allow the funeral to take place."

"But how are these letters made to 'arrive?'"

"They are set on fire and burnt."

"Leonard says he saw a number of people dressed in white in the procession."

"Those were the relatives in deep mourning, white, you remember, being the deepest, white and blue lesser, mourning."

"And he says he is sure he saw his friend Che-Yin among the mourners.You know, father, Che-Yin is really a great friend of Leonard's, though he is so much older than himself, and now he is taking great trouble to teach him to play on the musical instrument which he plays so well himself.I believe if Leonard were going to stay longer here he would really learn to play it quite well.Is it not kind of Che-Yin?But I must not interrupt you any more," Sybil went on, "and this is so interesting.Leonard said he wondered so much what could be happening once when he heard a tremendous noise, and saw people rushing out into the streets screaming."

"I think I know what that meant," was the missionary's answer."On the day of burial the relatives weep and lament very loudly.They carry a long white streamer, called a soul-cloth, to the ancestral hall, for the spirit to say 'Good-bye' to its ancestors.At three or four o'clock in the morning all decorations, that have been put up in front of the door, are taken down, and a banquet is made ready, of which the spirit is invited to partake.You remember I told you that they believe one spirit is buried with the body.Well, some kind of paper is now again burnt, while the spirit is asked to accompany the body, and the tablet and portrait of the dead man are put in a sedan-chair by his eldest son, over the top of which is a streamer of red satin, on which his name and titles are written.

"Distant relations remain standing out in the streets; but I expect what Leonard saw was people rushing out of the house, dreadfully frightened, for fear that after all the day might not be lucky, and the spirit should be vexed, and send trouble to them, in consequence.

"As the coffin is brought out offerings are also again presented to the spirit.Two men walk first, carrying large lanterns, on which are written the name, title, and age of the man who has died.Then come two other men with a gong, which they beat from time to time."

"Leonard heard that."

"Then follow musicians, and behind these some men walk with flags, others with red boards, on which are inscribed, in golden letters, the titles of the ancestors of the deceased."

"Then Leonard saw some gold canopies and sedan-chairs."

"Offerings made to the dead are carried under gilded canopies, and these canopies also follow the ancestral tablets.The portrait of the dead man is in one sedan-chair, and his wooden tablet in another.

"I believe somewhere about here are more musicians, then comes a man scattering pieces of paper fastened to tinfoil.This is supposed to be mock-money for hungry ghosts, the souls of those people who have died at corners of the streets, and this money is to make peace with them, so that they shall not injure the soul of the man now being buried.The eldest son carries a staff, whilst a person walks on either side to support him."

"But Leonard said he saw a white cock, when he could not help laughing.What could this be for?"

"The cock is also carried to call the soul to go with the body.Behind the eldest son comes the bier, carried by men or drawn by horses.

"Many other persons follow.All the people that can, go in the procession. Women with small feet, unless carried on their slaves' backs, can only go a short way. At the grave, grains of rice are scattered over the coffin, when the priest and all the people lift the cock and bend their bodies forward three times. The tablet is taken out of the chair, on which the nearest relation makes a mark with a red pencil; then the sons kneel down, and a priest, if present, addresses them."

"Then a priest is not obliged to go to the funeral?"

"No; sometimes only a man skilled in geomancy is present.Geomancy is a kind of foretelling things, by means of little dots first made on the ground and then on paper.The tablet is marked, I believe, to bring good luck to the sons, and then every one knocks his head on the ground and does homage to it."

Sybil was looking very serious, though she was smiling too.

"Oh, father!"she said, "how much you, and other missionaries, will have to teach these people!What a pity it is that they cannot know that the soul is never buried, and that they can't learn to worship and pray to God, Who would send them such real happiness in answer to their prayers!"

"It is indeed, my child," was the missionary's answer.

"And is anything more done for the dead after this except worship being paid to them?"

"Yes; for many days feasts are prepared for the departed relative, hot water is carried to him to wash his face and hands, and I have also heard of another way that the Chinese have of 'conveying' spirits to the kingdoms of Buddhistic hell.Little sedan-chairs are made of bamboo splints and paper, with four little paper bearers, and sometimes there is a fifth little paper man, holding an umbrella. These are burnt like the paper mock-money; and sometimes, after the death of another friend, a little paper trunk, full of paper clothes, is supplied for one already dead, and burnt, when the senders believe that the person who died last is conveying this trunk to the other in safety for them."

"They think that people need a great many things in the other world, then," Sybil said."And do children often worship at their parents' tombs?"

"Yes; at certain seasons of the year they make pilgrimages to the tops of high hills, or to other distant parts, where they prostrate themselves, this being supposed to continue the homage and reverence which they showed to them on earth; and they believe that in a great measure the happiness of the spirits depends upon the adoration and worship which they pay to them, whilst those who render it secure for themselves favour from the gods.Twice a day do children also pay adoration to their dead parents, before a shrine set up in the house to the memory of departed ancestors."

"But what is the use of preparing feasts for the dead?"Sybil asked."They cannot think that the dead really eat the food?"

"They seem to do so, and not only lay a place for them, but even put chop-sticks for their use."

Another procession Sybil and Leonard saw one day, and this Sybil described in the last letter that she wrote to her friend, before she left China.Some men carried an image of the Dragon King, others carried gongs, drums, and green and black and yellow and white flags, whilst boys, walking in the procession, called out loudly from time to time.

The children could not possibly imagine what this procession could be all about.

Some characters were written on the flags.

One man who, as Leonard thought, had a very happy, smiling face, had a pole slung across his shoulders, from which hung two buckets of water.In his hand he held a green branch of a shrub which, from time to time, he dipped in the water, and then sprinkled the ground; while he also continually called out something.Other men were carrying sticks of lighted incense.Most of the people, in the procession, wore white clothes, and white caps without tassels.

Sybil and Leonard were afterwards told that this was praying for rain, because for some time there had been none.

The Dragon King was carried, because he is supposed to be the god of rain.Besides the Dragon King there is a River Dragon, who is both feared and worshipped. His mother, Loong-Moo, is often worshipped by people engaged in river traffic.

The men and boys were calling out "Rain comes!"The yellow and white banners were to represent wind and water, and the green and black, clouds.

The inscription on the flags was, when translated, "Prayer is offered for rain."

---

CHAPTER XII.

One lady, whom Sybil visited, astonished her very much, because she had an only boy, who was very pale-looking and delicate, and she called him all sorts of names, and seemed to treat him so unkindly.When Sybil had been ill herself, her mother had always treated her with such extra love and care, and she fancied that all mothers behaved like this.Then the Chinese love their boys so much, that one would therefore have thought an only boy would be so very precious.The next time that she saw the lady she had given away her child to be adopted by some one else.Mrs. Graham heard the explanation to this unnatural conduct, and gave it to Sybil.The woman really loved her boy most fondly, and would have given anything she had to have him well, but she fancied that the gods were malicious towards him, and that if she pretended to them that she did not care for the child they would let him get well again.All that conduct was to deceive the gods.

Mr. Graham had several times dined out at Chinese houses, and sometimes his wife had accompanied him, but as Cantonese ladies never dine with their husbands in public, where her doing so was likely to give any offence, even though she were invited, she never went; but many Chinese very well understand that there are quite different laws for Europeans than there are for them, and these seemed to be glad to admit English ladies, with their husbands, to be guests at their houses.

When Mr. and Mrs. Graham went to one of these dinners, knives and forks were borrowed for them, and the other English visitors, in place of chop-sticks.A china spoon and a two-pronged fork were set before each person, and there were china wine-glasses.The table-napkins were of brown paper. Basins of fruit, from which all helped themselves as they liked, were in the middle of the table. There were a great many soups and other courses. Every now and then the host took something out of a basin with his chop-stick, and offered to put it into the mouths of his guests. Out of politeness they were bound to accept these gifts. There was not any beef, as no Chinaman eats beef. Music was played, and slaves fanned the people during dinner.

Once when Sybil visited some of her young Chinese friends, the tea was brought in to them in covered cups, and when they wanted more, tea-leaves were put into the cups and boiling water was poured upon them.She had learnt now to be able to drink tea without milk or sugar, but she could not like it.

A two months' stay at Canton brought the children to the end of four months and a half of their stay in China, and left but six weeks more before they were to return to England.It was the middle of March when the Grahams said "Good-bye" to their kind friends at the Yamen, and returned to Hong-Kong.Sybil could not bear to say this farewell, as it was the last but one, and she knew how very quickly six weeks would pass.

They had all enjoyed their stay in Canton very much, and often thought about the New Year's Day which had been kept, while they were there, with such grand rejoicings.At midnight, on the last day of the old year, a bell, never used except on this occasion, pealed forth, when, at the signal, people rushed into the streets in crowds to let off fireworks.

Every temple and every pagoda was lighted up, and people burnt incense before idols in their own homes. Some streets are lighted in Canton by lanterns, but, as a rule, the smaller streets are in darkness, with the exception of paper lanterns, which hang, every now and then, from before shops or private houses, and even these are put out by half-past nine o'clock. Paraffin lamps are now being introduced along Chinese city streets.

All New Year's night a great noise was to be heard, and in the morning friends dressed in their best to call upon, and salute, one another.

In the streets they were to be seen prostrating themselves upon the ground.Rich and poor alike had great rejoicings on New Year's Day, the rich often keeping up their holiday for ten days.

Latterly Mr. Graham had been several times backwards and forwards to Hong-Kong, where he had made his final arrangements.

The missionary, whose place he was about to fill, would, when he left the island, take with him to England, besides his own family, Sybil and Leonard Graham.Until they sailed, the Grahams would all stay with them at the Mission House, when it would be handed over to Mr. Graham.

The other missionary had three children of his own, two daughters, twelve and ten years old, and a son of nine, but as they had been absent from Hong-Kong when the Grahams had been there before, the children had not yet made one another's acquaintance.

The eldest, Katie, now became Sybil's very useful interpreter, for as she had been born in China and lived there all her life, she could understand, and speak, many Chinese dialects.

Sybil now knew several Chinese words herself. "Che-fan," or "Have you eaten your rice?" was "How do you do?" though, as a rule, when people said "How do you do?" to her it was "Chin-chin mississi?"

When she went out visiting, questions such as the following were generally put to her, "What honourable name have you?""What is the name of your beautiful dwelling?"and "What age have you?"Had she been grown up, this question would probably have been, "What is your venerable age?"

Leonard was often told to "catchee plenty chow-chow," which means "eat a very good dinner," but as somehow he generally seemed able to do this, he hardly needed the kind advice.

Mrs. Graham's amah amused Sybil very much.She had been a great traveller, having visited both England and America, and she liked England much the best.One day she said to Sybil: "Melicā no good countly.Welly bad chow-chow.Appool number one.My hab chow-chow sixty pieces before bleakfast.Any man no got dollar, all hab got paper.Number one foolo pidgin.No good countly.My no likee Melicā.My likee England side more better."This meant: "America is not a good country.It has very bad food, but first-rate apples.I ate sixty before breakfast.No one has any dollars there, all use paper money.Very foolish business.Not a good country.I do not like America.I like England better."

Some pleasure or another was always forthcoming for Sybil and Leonard, and the few last "Peep-shows" were very precious.

One day, when they were out, they saw a "Sing-Song," as the performance was called.Under a canopy, in the open streets, children were acting and dancing. To do so, they had dressed up in very gorgeous costumes, their ornaments and head-dresses being grander, Leonard said, than anything he had ever seen before; and the little Chinese actors themselves seemed to be thoroughly at their ease, and quite at home, in their grand attire.

"Why did that policeman come after you to-day, father, and take down the name of the boat that we got into?"Leonard once asked, when he and his father had been out together, and were returning home.

"Policemen have done that several times, if you had only noticed," was the reply."That was to guard us from pirates.They took the name of our boat, so that the owner could be held responsible if we did not return safely.The Chinese are dreadful pirates, and are generally on the look-out for opportunities to rob.Sometimes a band of them will take their passages in a ship, and when fairly out at sea will all rise in mutiny against the captain and his officers, and perhaps murder them, so as to be able to plunder as they choose."

"I should think the boat-policemen had plenty of work to do," Leonard then said.

"Father, do you remember well when you were just eleven?"the child then asked suddenly, going, as it seemed, right away from his present subject."Did you ever want to be a sailor then?ever think for certain you would be one?"

"I do not remember ever having had that wish."

"Well, I have had it over and over again, and thought that there could not be anything better in the world than going about in ships, and seeing different places.I've wished to be a sailor for ever so many years; but, you know, I don't wish it now."

Mr. Graham smiled.I expect it was Leonard's "ever so many years" which made him do so.

"Don't you?"his father asked."Then what do you want to be now?"

"Something, father, I'm not half good enough for," the boy answered, thoughtfully."A missionary!Oh, father, I do so want to be a missionary now, and come to China, as you and grandfather have done!Shouldn't you like it too?I know mother would; and perhaps the Church Missionary Society would send me out if I asked them."

"I should like nothing better, my little son," was the missionary's reply.

A few minutes later Leonard was out of doors again, flying himself one of the "wonderful kites," which a Chinaman had made for, and given to, him, and his father was watching his little fellow with pleasure almost amounting to pride.

Was this his impulsive boy's own thought, he wondered, or had his sister suggested it to him.

Quite his own; but no doubt the quiet, gentle influence which Sybil exerted over her younger brother was very good for him.

"Do you think, Sybil, that the heathen Chinese could teach the Christian English anything?"Mr. Graham asked his daughter, as they sat and talked together the very last evening.

"I am sure they could," she answered quickly; "many things.Filial love and obedience for one, respect and reverence for old age for another; and then, though they do believe such silly, superstitious things, there seems to be such a reality, so much earnestness, about the way some of them carry out their religion. They do not mind how early they get up and go out to keep a religious festival, and they seem to ask a sort of blessing, from their gods, on everything they do, and keep their fasts and feasts so very regularly; but I think their love for their parents beats everything. 'Boy' asked for a holiday yesterday, because it was his mother's birthday, and got up very early to do his work before he went." "Boy" was a kind of footman.

"Yes; parents' birthdays are kept up much more than are those of children.Sometimes on their birthdays they will sit under a crimson canopy, whilst their children kneel and perform the 'kow-tow' to them.The fifty-first birthday, and every ten years afterwards, is celebrated with great pomp, when religious ceremonies are often performed at the Temple of Longevity.I believe thirty Buddhist priests will then sometimes return thanks for three days.

"When a man is eighty-one, the fact is occasionally communicated to the Emperor, who may then allow money to be given for a monumental arch to be erected to the old man's honour.

"After parents are dead their birthdays are still celebrated in the ancestral hall, where their portraits hang."

"I suppose children give their parents beautiful presents on their birthdays?"

"When they begin to get old the best present that a child can, and does, make a parent, and one which he values more than anything else, is a coffin, because, you know, a Chinaman thinks that unless his body be buried properly his spirit cannot rest.

"The Chinese are strange contradictions," Mr. Graham went on."Although they are very courageous in bearing torture, they are dreadful liars, and a great liar is generally a great coward. Then they are sober and industrious, but slaves to the opium drug; meek and gentle, but, at the same time, treacherous and cruel; most dutiful to their parents, but often very jealous of their neighbours; and then, perhaps strangest of all, is their love towards their children, but yet their readiness to put their girls to death."

Sybil was silent for several minutes."Oh, father!"she then said, "isn't the time dreadfully near now?Fancy leaving you and dear mother!How can we?"

"You must go to your work, darling, and we must stay here to do ours. Is it not so?" Mr. Graham asked, in the dear, kind, soft voice that Sybil loved so much, and which she always called his "preachy voice." "But what shall give us comfort? what shall we think about when we are trying to do our several duties, though apart, I hope contentedly and well? That it is God who has called us to our several duties; it is His Almighty will which we have now and always to obey; but remember, not alone, not unaided, dear Sybil. Who will be our guide, stay, and comfort, when we are separated from one another?"

Sybil knew, but could not answer, because she was crying.

"Your mother and I," Mr. Graham went on, "in commending our children to the Fatherly love and care of Him Who gave you to us, know that we place you in the safest keeping; and you yourselves have also both learnt, have you not, how to go to our Father and 'Supreme Ruler' in earnest prayer, whenever tempted to do what would displease Him?A missionary, you know, is one who is sent on a mission—to fulfil a duty. A missionary's children must not shrink from fulfilling, must not fail to fulfil, the mission on which they are sent, must they?"

Sybil looked comforted.She liked this last "Peep-show" very much, and kissed her father to show him that she did.

A few minutes later she said, "Do you know, father, I believe little Chu is really beginning to believe and understand properly, for the other day, when I was saying my prayers, she came and knelt down beside me, and she would never kneel to our God before, even when she saw the Christian woman at Poah-bi do so, with whom we stayed, and with whom she was such good friends.I shall often remember that woman and her dear little baby, which she tied to herself so funnily, because I liked them so very much.

"Poor little Chu!"Sybil then went on."I shall be so glad to see her again when I come back to you, but I do not think she will like me to go away."

"Chu will have to be a great deal at school now.She has her work to do too, you know."

"How I shall think of you, father, and the Hong-Kong Mission on Intercession Day, when it comes round, shan't I?"

"Yes, Sybil; and not only on Intercession Day, but always in your prayers, you must remember to pray very fervently, both for Chinese and other unbelievers, and not only for me, but for all who are seeking their conversion."

"It seems a more real thing now to pray for," Sybil said.

"And to give thanks for too.Here in Hong-Kong we have great cause to be thankful."

"What a dear old lady that was who was baptized on Sunday!but what was the Christian name she chose?I could not hear it."

"Mong-Oi, which means 'desiring the love' (of Jesus)."

"That was a beautiful name, wasn't it?And there were a number of communicants for here too.How many native communicants are there in Hong-Kong?"

"Between sixty and seventy; and what is so comforting is that the communicants seem to be really devout, and to realise what being a communicant means for, and requires of, them, and it is no easy matter at all for natives of China to embrace Christianity.Sometimes they have to leave all their relations, and suffer much persecution in consequence."

"When was the Hong-Kong mission begun?"Sybil asked.

"In 1862."

Although the results were far from what the zealous missionaries would fain have seen them, Mr. Graham was right in saying that the Mission from the Church of England to Hong-Kong had cause to take hope and be thankful.

Several men and women were now under instruction both for baptism and confirmation.The mission schools for boys numbered more than 190, and for girls more than thirty, and here the children were religiously as well as secularly instructed.

There were, although only two European missionaries and one native clergyman, twenty-three native Christian teachers, and 183 native Christians.The Mission comprised, besides St.Stephen's Church and the agencies around it in the island of Hong-Kong, many out-stations in the province of Quangtung occupied by native agents.

The Prayer Book, and, still better, the Holy Bible, translated into their own tongue, were now circulated among the people, some of whom were really learning to love and value them; and not only were the services for the Christians well attended, but every evening the heathen were to be seen in numbers going to hear sermons that were to be preached for them.

Well, then, might Mr. Graham go forth to his new work with hope.

"How much you will have to do, father," Sybil said, "if you go to the Medical Missionary Institution so often, and do all your other work besides!But the people seem to be very grateful to you.'Boy' said yesterday that you were 'a hundred man good,' and I know what that means: 'The best of men.'"

Mr. Graham smiled.

"I like, and it is good for us all," he said, "to have plenty to do; and one work, you know, may help on the other."

"I expect mother will help you a very great deal too."

"She is sure to do that."Sybil knew she was.

All day long the child had spent beside her much-loved mother; now, for another hour, she sat on and talked with her father, receiving good, kind counsel, when Leonard, who had been closeted with his mother, listening to her dear words of best advice, came in, with eyes swollen from crying, and then the four sat together till it was long past bed-time; but what of that?To-morrow, on board ship, there would be nothing to keep them up late, when they could make up for to-night, and go early to bed.

To-morrow came, as happy and sad to-morrows all alike will come; when the mother gave her children their last kisses, the father their last kisses and benedictions, and Sybil and Leonard Graham started on their homeward voyage to England, leaving their parents very grateful for having such good, kind friends to whose care on board ship to entrust them.

Both children were to return at once to their former schools, and spend their holidays together at Mrs. Graham's brother's house, who was also the rector of a country parish, and where she knew they would very soon feel quite at home.

Sybil and Leonard Graham, the children of brave parents, were brave children themselves, and as they had promised not to grieve more then they could help, they at once did battle with their tears, and before long were talking really cheerfully with their friends.

"Who knows," Sybil said once to Leonard, when she and her brother found themselves alone, "but what they might come over for a small holiday-trip in two or three years' time? and if not, I believe when I go out you are to go with me for another 'Peep-show' holiday, and to see them!"

"Of course I ought to go whenever I can," Leonard answered, "as I'm going to be a missionary out there myself."

Sybil had said "them" because she could not yet say, without crying, those two dear, sacred words, father and mother, which stand alone in the vocabulary of every language, and have no peers.

Mrs. Graham herself was then alone, shedding bitter tears, which she had stifled until her children left her, but which she could keep back no longer.

Yet, though her mother's loving heart was very sad and sore, she would not weep long, but would, to the very best of her ability, go forth at once to help her husband—who could not but feel sad now too—in the good work in which she had encouraged him to embark, counting all the costs beforehand.

And Sybil, who had said "I like my father to be a missionary very much," would not unsay the words now, though it took both her parents so far away from her and Leonard.Oh no!since she had seen the great need that there was for missionaries to China, she liked, even better than before, her father "to be a missionary!"

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